History of english Bulldog

The English bulldog descends from an Molosses of Tibet, and it was use to fight the invaders and then Roman Christians in Arenas, bears ... and bulls. (Bulldog: bull dog) 

In 1209, Lord Stamford, attended a bullfight with two dogs belonging to a butcher. And it is at that moment that he decided to organizing a fight : The bull-baiting. The bull will be tied by horns with a rope attached to a pole or a ring. To ward off the onslaught of his attackers, the bull tries to projected in air, the dog. To avoid being horned, dogs approached almost crawl.

The bull-baiting had spread in Europe and was practiced for more than six centuries. It's during this period that the bulldog has selected its characteristics :

1. The body near the ground to avoid the horns.
2. La truffe en arrière pour pouvoir respirer sans lâcher prise.
3. Les rides qui permettaient au sang du taureau de s'écouler sans aveugler le chien.

In 1802, after a very heat discussion, a bill to abolish bull-baiting was issued at house commons. The practice continued, however, until 1835 when it was made illegal by an Act of English Parliament. With the decline of bull-bating, the number of purebred bulldogs began to diminish rapidly. The sport of dog-fighting, which succeeded bull-bating in public fancy, was largely responsible for diminishing number of pure-bred bulldogs. Many breeders began crossing the bulldog with the terrier because they felt that such a bull-and-terrier cross produced a better fighter. About this time, a number of laws were placed restrictions and taxes on dogs ; these, together with the fact that the bulldog's chief uses were outlawed, all but completed his doom. Go on reading with the first bulldog breed clubs. 

Standard race :

Description : The Bulldog is small in stature, but wide and compact, with a thick, massive head. Its head should be broad (the broader the more prized) with cheeks that extend to the sides of the eyes. The skin on the skull and forehead should fall in dense folds. Its muzzle is short and pug, its nose, broad and black with large nostrils. Its upper lip is pendent and its lower jaw should be very undershot. Eyes are very round, far apart and very dark. The ears should be small and thin, folded back in the form of a rose. The tail is short and carries low.  The coat comes in red, fawn, brindle, pale yellow or washed-out red, or white, and can combine any of these colors. Black is not acceptable. The Muzzle is sometimes dark. With its stocky legs set squarely at each corner of its compact, muscular body, the Bulldog's deliberate gain has become a waddle.

Temperament : Although the English Bulldogs appearance can be somewhat intimidating, it is among the gentlest of dogs.  Just the same it will see off any intruder, and few would risk a close encounter with a dog brave enough to bait a bull.  It is described as a very affectionate and dependable animal, gentlest of dogs.  just the same it will see off any intruder, and few would risk a close encounter with a dog brave enough to bait a bull.  It is described as a very affectionate and dependable animal, gentle with children, but known for its courage and its excellent guarding abilities.  bullheaded and determined, this breed can be very persistent. they do not give up easily. bulldogs are very much a peoples dog seeking out human attention and loving every bit it can get!!  A lot of human attention is required for the breed's happiness.  some english bulldogs can be a bit dominating and need an owner who knows how to display strong leadership and understands alpha canine behavior. a bulldog who understands it's *place* in the human pack, is nice to, and reliable with all people.  This breed is good with family pets, but some can be scrappy with strange dogs.  When bulldogs are young, they are full of energy, but slow down as they get older. they snore very loudly, and most have drool and slobber tendencies.

Head and skull : Skull large in circumference, should measure round (in front of the ears) approximately height of dog at shoulder. Viewed from front appears very high from corner of lower jaw to apex of skull; also very broad and square. Cheeks well-rounded and extended sideways beyond eyes. Viewed from side, head appears very high and short from back to point of nose. Forehead flat with skin upon and about head, loose and wrinkled, neither prominent nor overhanging face. Projections of frontal bones prominent, broad, square and high; deep, wide indentation between eyes. From stop a furrow, both broad and deep extending to middle of skull being traceable to apex. Face from front of cheek-bone to nose, short, skin wrinkled. Muzzle short, broad, turned upwards and very deep from corner of eye to corner of mouth. Nose and nostrils large, broad and black, under no circumstances liver colour, red or brown; top set back to eyes. Distance from inner corner of eye (or from center of stop between eyes) to extreme tip of nose exceeding length from tip of nose to edge of under lip. Nostrils large, wide and open, with well-defined vertical straight line between. Flews (chops) thick, broad, pendant and very deep, hanging completely over lower jaws at sides, not in front. Joining under lip in front and quite covering teeth. Jaws broad, massive and square, lower jaw projecting in front of upper and turning up. Nose roll must not interferewith the line of layback. Viewed from front, the various properties of the face must be equally balanced on either side of an imaginary line down center.

Neck : Moderate in length, very thick, deep and strong. Well-arched at back, with much loose, thick and wrinkled skin about the throat, forming dewlap on each side, from lower jaw to chest.

Body : Chest wide, laterally round, prominent and deep. Back short, strong, broad at shoulders, comparatively narrower at loins. Slight fall to back close behind shoulders (lowest part) whence spine should rise to loins (top higher than top of shoulder), curving again more suddenly to tail, forming arch (termed roach back) - a distinctive characteristic of breed. Body well ribbed up behind with belly tucked up and not pendulous.

Tail : Set on low, jutting out rather straight and then turning downwards. Round, smooth and devoid of fringe or coarse hair. Moderate in length - rather short than long - thick at root, tapering quickly to a fine point. Downward carriage (not having a decided upward curve at end) and never carried above back.

Forequarters : Shoulders--The shoulders should be muscular, very heavy, widespread and slanting outward, giving stability and great power. Forelegs--The forelegs should be short, very stout, straight and muscular, set wide apart, with well developed calves, presenting a bowed outline, but the bones of the legs should not be curved or bandy, nor the feet brought too close together. Elbows--The elbows should be low and stand well out and loose from the body. Feet-- The feet should be moderate in size, compact and firmly set. Toes compact, well split up, with high knuckles and very short stubby nails. The front feet may be straight or slightly out-turned.

Hindquarters : Legs--The hind legs should be strong and muscular and longer than the forelegs, so as to elevate the loins above the shoulders. Hocks should be slightly bent and well let down, so as to give length and strength from the loins to hock. The lower leg should be short, straight and strong, with the stifles turned slightly outward and away from the body. The hocks are thereby made to approach each other, and the hind feet to turn outward. Feet--The feet should be moderate in size, compact and firmly set. Toes compact, well split up, with high knuckles and short stubby nails. The hind feet should be pointed well outward.

Gait / Movement : Peculiarly heavy and constrained, appearing to walk with short, quick steps on tips of toes, hind feet not lifted high, appearing to skim ground, running with one or other shoulder rather advanced. Soundness of movement of the utmost importance.

Coat : The coat should be straight, short, flat, close, of fine texture, smooth and glossy. (No fringe, feather or curl.) Wrinkles and Dewlap--The head and face should be covered with heavy wrinkles, and at the throat, from jaw to chest, there should be two loose pendulous folds, forming the dewlap.

Skin : The skin should be soft and loose, especially at the head, neck and shoulders.

Coleur : The color of coat should be uniform, pure of its kind and brilliant. The various colors found in the breed are to be preferred in the following order : (1) red brindle, (2) all other brindles, (3) solid white, (4) solid red, fawn or fallow, (5) piebald, (6) inferior qualities of all the foregoing. Note: A perfect piebald is preferable to a muddy brindle or defective solid color. Solid black is very undesirable, but not so objectionable if occurring to a moderate degree in piebald patches. The brindles to be perfect should have a fine, even and equal distribution of the composite colors. In brindles and solid colors a small white patch on the chest is not considered detrimental. In piebalds the color patches should be well defined, of pure color and symmetrically distributed.

Height : about 31-40 cm. (there is no prescribed height, but shorter Bulldogs are more prized when being shown).

Weight : dogs (24 - 25 kg), bitches (22-23kg).

Default : Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.

Défauts éliminatoires : Chiens en détresse respiratoire. Queue incarnée. Tout chien présentant de façon évidente des anomalies d’ordre physique ou comportemental sera disqualifié. N.B. : Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

English bulldog and the Heatstroke

• Fresh water available.
• In high heat, do not make physical exercises with your bulldog.
• Do not let the bulldog in a car in the sun.
• Suggest drink regularly during outings.
• On the beach, refresh the bulldog regularly and if possible install nearly a shade ...

• The body temperature rises
• The respiratory rate increases.
• The mucous membranes become blue

• PROGRESSIVELY, refresh the bulldog.
  • Place the bulldog in a cool in the shade.
  • Refresh the neck region with water.
  • Then and only then, can immerse the bulldog in cold water.
• Showing your bulldog to a veterinarian to complete care.

Education des chiots

Vous venez d'acquérir un petit chiot et votre seul désir est de le gâter beaucoup et de le rendre heureux. C'est ce que nous souhaitons pour les chiots qui sortent de chez nous.

Mais ils faut savoir que les relations entre chiens se basent sur des rapports de dominance. Le chien est un animal hiérarchique : il vit dans une meute où l'animal dominant a différentes prérogatives, dont celle de manger en premier, lentement, devant sa meute, celle de surveiller et contrôler les déplacements dans la meute, et celle d'avoir la priorité à la reproduction. Pour que votre chiot soit à sa place dans votre famille (c'est-à-dire dans sa meute), VOUS DEVEZ ÊTRE LE DOMINANT. Si vous lui laissez certaines prérogatives de dominant, cette hiérarchie sera floue dans son esprit et il pourra devenir agressif ou destructeur plus tard. Il faut donc mettre dès le départ votre petit chiot à sa place sociale de dominé.

1. Quand vous donnez un ordre à votre chien, adoptez une attitude de dominant : buste en avant, en se grandissant, regardez votre chien sur la croupe et adoptez un ton ferme.
2. Ne pas le faire dormir avec vous. La chambre à coucher est réservée au dominant (c'est-à-dire vous). Il est parfois difficile d'entendre le chiot pleurer dans la cuisine et de savoir que vous pouvez arrêter ses pleurs en le prenant avec vous, mais il ne faut pas céder. Vous éviterez ainsi les problèmes de dominance et les problèmes d'hyperattachement. Il faut donc lui installer un panier dans un coin mais pas dans l'entrée, ni dans le couloir car ce sont des lieux de passage qui permettent de surveiller les allées et venues de tout le monde.
   Attention : pour éviter toute agression, ne dérangez jamais, et ne réprimandez jamais votre chien lorsqu'il est dans son panier, c'est son refuge ! Apprenez à vos enfants à bien respecter cette condition sous peine de voir apparaître des grognements voire des morsures.
3. Le faire manger après vous (ou alors une heure avant si cela ne vous est pas possible), dans un lieu isolé et en votre absence. La gamelle doit être retirée au bout d'un quart d'heure même si elle n'est pas terminée : un chiot qui chipote devant ses croquettes est souvent un chiot qui vous teste. S'il grogne, grondez-le.
4. Si votre chiot vous chevauche comme pour s'accoupler, il faut refuser ce comportement car la reproduction est réservée au chef de meute.

C'est vous qui devez gérer les contacts avec votre jeune chiot : c'est vous qui initiez les moments de jeux, de caresses et de câlins avec lui. Evitez de jouer directement avec vos mains, il risquerait de vous faire mal en mordillant mais surtout, il faut absolument lui apprendre à contrôler sa morsure dès l'âge de deux mois. Lorsqu'un chiot mordille trop fort un autre chiot de la portée, ce dernier se plaint en couinant. La chienne attrape alors son chiot mordeur par la peau du cou pour le punir d'y être allé trop fort. A vous de jouer les mamans de substitution en soulevant votre animal par la peau du cou, lorsqu'il mordille. Faites-le pendant qu'il est encore petit, car un chien non éduqué qui mord pour jouer peut faire très mal une fois adulte.

L'actualité nous le rappelle trop souvent, il est important de prendre conscience que l'éducation d'un chien doit être effectuée sérieusement. La période de socialisation du chien se situe entre 2 et 3 mois, il est alors nécessaire de permettre au chiot de faire le plus de découvertes possibles (foule, enfants, bruits, autres espèces...). Alors, promenez votre chiot dans divers endroits, faîtes-lui rencontrer un maximum de personnes et de situations différentes. Et ce même s'il n'a pas encore tous ses vaccins ( évidemment, ne pas l'emmener dans des lieux sales.) Nos chiots sont habitués aux bruits, aux voitures, aux enfants... Cette socialisation, c'est à vous de la maintenir.

Surveillez toujours votre chien lorsque des enfants jouent et crient à proximité, certains chiens sont hypersensibles à l'agitation et leur tolérance est souvent diminuée.

Price of bulldogs puppies

Very often when people hear the price of a bulldog they think that we breeders must be making lots of money. Wrong.....!!

1. The breeder also spends a lot of money to buy his/her bulldog bitch.
2. Getting the bitch to an age where she can be bred with also cost a lot (good quality food, vets bills etc.).
3. The breeder might take the bitch to a vet so the correct time of mating can be established.
4. A stud dog belonging to someone else might be used for the mating. The stud fee can be a puppy from that litter or more...
5. The stud dog might be in another part of the country so the bitch needs to be ship there (sending of "dry shipper" is +- 600 euros ).
6. Normally with bulldogs, artificial insemination is done. This means at least 2 trips to a vet.
7. About 4 weeks after the mating the breeder might take the bitch to the vet for an ultra-sound scan (to see if she's pregnant).
8. The breeder might take the bitch to a vet so the correct time of mating can be established.
9. A stud dog belonging to someone else might be used for the mating. The stud fee can be a puppy from that litter or more...
10. The stud dog might be in another part of the country so the bitch needs to be ship there (sending of "dry shipper" is +- 600 euros ).
11. Normally with bulldogs, artificial insemination is done. This means at least 2 trips to a vet.
12. If she's not pregnant....well, then all the money spend so far was wasted and the breeder has to repeat the whole process next time the bitch is in season.
13. About 4 weeks after the mating the breeder might take the bitch to the vet for an ultra-sound scan (to see if she's pregnant).
14. If she is pregnant....YIPPEEEEE!! Now money is spend on supplements to keep her healthy and in good shape.
15. Once the puppies are born somebody needs to keep an eye on mom and them for a few weeks. For this reason, the breeder spends his/her hard-earned leave raising puppies and not on a nice relaxing holiday.
16. After a few weeks the puppies need to be dewormed, inoculated and checked by a vet.
17. When the puppies are weaned, after about 4 weeks, they need to be fed a high quality puppy food.
18. Puppies must be registered at the SCC (Central canine society).
19. To get the puppies to this stage the breeder would have needed a whelping box, a puppy pen, dry bed, stacks of old newspapers, cotton wool, feeding bottles, toys, feeding bowls, old towels, a thermometer, dog nailclippers, anti-septic lotion and a million other things that all costs money.
20. All of the above is presumed nothing went wrong with the bitch or the puppies.
21. All the above adds up to quit a bit of money. If the bitch has a small litter (1 to 3 pups) the breeder will loose money, with a average litter (4 to 6 pups) the breeder might break even and with a big litter (more than 6 pups) the breeder just might make some money (only to spend it the next time he/she decides to breed again).

So why do we do it? Because we love our Bullies.